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Materials needed: T30 bit, driver, flat screwdriver, and rubber-headed mallet. After only one minute of hard work, we finally figured it out:
Remove the covers from the four finger switches.
Take the lid off and unscrew the T30 bolt.
To free the outside tabs of the broken switch, use a flat and a mallet to "chisel and turn" at the top and rear edges.
Get the interior tabs to quit using the bit driver and mallet.
Remove a shattered noodle assembly
Connect the keyed wire to the new switch housing.
Using a bit driver and a mallet to induce noodle replacement
Install the bottom cover and secure it using the T30 screw.
You’re only seeing the surface.
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The driver's window switch assembly was replaced.
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GURU4U2BUY
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 8:40 pm
Did anything else need to be removed? Example: the door panel?
Plus, why was it necessary to replace it? Were the upper and/or lower potions of the windows need to be reprogrammed?
Plus, why was it necessary to replace it? Were the upper and/or lower potions of the windows need to be reprogrammed?
We had a problem with the passenger side window switch. The switch key cover had a mechanical problem, so I could lower it but not raise it. The key cover was removed over the weekend.
I found a solution by utilising the 'temperature' app, which only functioned when parked. The passenger window could only be raised in this fashion.
Since the window's location was unaltered throughout the repair, no reprogramming is required.
I found a solution by utilising the 'temperature' app, which only functioned when parked. The passenger window could only be raised in this fashion.
Since the window's location was unaltered throughout the repair, no reprogramming is required.
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GURU4U2BUY
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 8:40 pm
I had to reset the upper and lower limit in my 2008 Honda Accord after replacing the driver's window switch unit. I wanted to make sure, so I enquired.
I made a change by removing the other covers from the switches. After that, twist the flat like a chisel and pry the back tab off. The front tab was also treated in the same manner. Bit driver and rubber-headed mallet extracted it. Taking off the old connector and replacing it was a breeze.
