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After trying to fix it by swapping out the gearshift module with a known-good one (a very simple process), I gave up today. On the previous module, everything is fine until you suddenly stop in traffic and the car starts pulling away in the wrong gear, even though you've stopped and turned the key (it will or won't work), and then it becomes stuck. After using the service release tab, everything is fine again, but it won't happen again for a long time.
Just like on the new shifter, the box is OK before anyone says anything about the plate, the oil, or whatever consensus there is.
Before this, I was here with the key and an emulater installed. I also had an oil track event from the front plug in box to the control module, which I cleaned and fixed. Today, I did a thorough scan, erased all history, and rescanned. The results showed nothing related to the gearbox, and I am aware of what they are.
any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Perhaps I should give tcm for 766.2 a go on the side.
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mechanisms genuinely
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LiamTheGreat
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 8:35 pm
On rare occasions, my SLC will suddenly accelerate in third or fourth gear rather than first.
Problem solved upon replacement of a wheel speed sensor.
Problem solved upon replacement of a wheel speed sensor.
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drivesafejane
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:02 pm
It has been at least six years since the 'd2b audio/electrc heater open' error message has been there, which is a water pump on the expansion tank that does not exist. I understand. I have deleted all medical history from the scan, leaving only three operating air conditioners that are empty.
So, what should I do in this situation? Should I brake or exit? I can't remove the key (the emulater that came with the EIS) because it was supposed to be the problem. Oil tracking to the TCU in the floor was fixed, and it has been fine for a long time.
So, you can either press down on the brake pedal to release it, or you can use the pressure sensor on the master cylinder (which was formerly a button for the brake lights, haha), which apparently does a lot of other stuff, including turning up the gears and the tail light. yet that is no longer taking place.
Now that we're back to the stuck key, I've tried using the brake or pull lever, but nothing has worked. Finally, I inserted a pencil in the shifter's release slot. once the key is removed, it returns to an unspecified state. When the light turns green, it seems like you're pulling away in a higher gear; in a parking lot, going backwards feels like you're pressing on the brakes. Except for when it's at 270 odd k, this effect is really annoying.
Every 40,000 miles, the gearbox is serviced. The oil looks like virgin, and I had problems seeing it. The dipstick is made of polycarbonate.
ckeck for fresh oil and remove the door trim, kick panel, and carpet today. I would greatly appreciate any advise you can provide before I figure out how to fix the problem, as lifting the carpet flap isn't very useful while checking for oil tracks.
Thanks a tonne!
So, what should I do in this situation? Should I brake or exit? I can't remove the key (the emulater that came with the EIS) because it was supposed to be the problem. Oil tracking to the TCU in the floor was fixed, and it has been fine for a long time.
So, you can either press down on the brake pedal to release it, or you can use the pressure sensor on the master cylinder (which was formerly a button for the brake lights, haha), which apparently does a lot of other stuff, including turning up the gears and the tail light. yet that is no longer taking place.
Now that we're back to the stuck key, I've tried using the brake or pull lever, but nothing has worked. Finally, I inserted a pencil in the shifter's release slot. once the key is removed, it returns to an unspecified state. When the light turns green, it seems like you're pulling away in a higher gear; in a parking lot, going backwards feels like you're pressing on the brakes. Except for when it's at 270 odd k, this effect is really annoying.
Every 40,000 miles, the gearbox is serviced. The oil looks like virgin, and I had problems seeing it. The dipstick is made of polycarbonate.
ckeck for fresh oil and remove the door trim, kick panel, and carpet today. I would greatly appreciate any advise you can provide before I figure out how to fix the problem, as lifting the carpet flap isn't very useful while checking for oil tracks.
Thanks a tonne!
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drivesafejane
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:02 pm
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drivesafejane
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:02 pm
After I swapped out the shifter with a new, high-quality one, the car ran smoothly over fifty miles of stop-and-go traffic. left without incident after dropping off to visit a friend. the road was clean, but I had to drive slowly for a mile in first gear only. All intermittent contacts, such as movements, d and n, n and r, or sticks in p, were addressed during the on-off, key, foot pedal, and stuck key routine.Try releasing it again; after that, the engine still wouldn't start since the starter wouldn't engage. I fiddled about some more, waited a few minutes, and then stepped firmly on the brake pedal. I replaced the key and now the drive starts up without a hitch. difficulties solved, codes eliminated
What on earth.brake pedal sensor is what the references say?
Before this complete and utter craziness, there was a squeaky back brake. I took the wheel off and put the pads back to make sure the parking brake wasn't sticking.get new wheels and tires. I tried pumping the brakes, shifting into gear, and starting the vehicle without any codes, however the key would not engage the starter.
What on earth.brake pedal sensor is what the references say?
Before this complete and utter craziness, there was a squeaky back brake. I took the wheel off and put the pads back to make sure the parking brake wasn't sticking.get new wheels and tires. I tried pumping the brakes, shifting into gear, and starting the vehicle without any codes, however the key would not engage the starter.
