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Greetings, all!

Consequently, I was hoping that you could all give me some guidance.
I was aware that my 2008 Mini Clubman had an illuminated engine light and a permanently turned-on fan when I purchased it around one month ago. After discovering an oil leak that I had been unaware of, I quickly fixed the issue by replacing the seals on the vacuum pump.

After swapping out the ect sensor, fuel switch, and cam sensor, the problem appeared to be resolved; nevertheless, the engine light remained illuminated. On occasion, the battery indicator would flash and the numbers would pixelate or fade as I drove.
(Previously, codes po117 and po342 appeared)
When I retested, I still didn't get any codes , however the same codes and a co300 did appear.
Now it turns over, but it won't start. To make a long tale short, it was operating fine before.
Even with a fresh battery, it remains unstartable.
Because there was oil in cylinders 2 and 3, I replaced the valve gasket, PCV valve, spark plugs, and ignition coils. However, when I checked the spark in cylinder 1, there was none.
Continues to not turn on! Now that it reads 11.98, the battery is obviously draining. therefore far, all the fuses have tested OK, therefore the alternator is my only suspect...

I would highly appreciate any guidance or first-hand accounts of this situation (before I shell out hundreds of dollars for the alternator). Thank you in advance to everyone.

So, it turns out that cylinders 2 and 3 indeed contain oil. inspecting the inside of the engine with a borescope? after taking the spark plug coils out? What about oil? Are those the same duel filament bulbs you used to replace your brake lights not long ago? There is a possibility that single filament bulbs could lead to a parasitic drain. Has the stereo been changed recently? Another factor that can cause a drain to form is the method of installation. If I were you, I'd use a jump pack—a battery brick with jumper cables—to get it started. A jumper pack should be in the car's toolbox in case the alternator is good or bad.
After it starts up, you will have power. is insufficient. The ideal voltage for the battery to start the automobile is 12.75 volts, however 12.60 is fine. Naturally, it's possible that what you're describing and the fuse checks you performed are insufficient. Using a voltmeter to conduct a voltage drop draw test can be necessary. A draw could be caused by brake light sockets that are rusted.

Good day,

I value your guidance. I removed the ignition coils and noticed oil, but there was no bore scope. I believe this occurred because of a badly worn pcv valve, which has since been replaced.
The only things I've done to the automobile are install the sensors you recommended and now the other repairs. Even after a friend attempted to jump start it last night, the battery, which is brand new, has dropped to 11.98...

The motor has been running well even before the gasket repair, so I'm not sure what to do if that doesn't work. Last night, I watched a video that had the same symptoms as mine, and it turned out that the power wasn't coming out of the relay r6. I'm going to attempt that.The engine is turning over, but it won't start.
I appreciate it.

Because it is a three-piece structure, the probable culprit was the valve cover gasket that failed. The spark plugs and the valve cover are separated by the two parts in the center. In my view, that's where the breach occurred. In their place, you can find a few distinct schools of logic. Until it's completely wasted, I say continuing using the used one. My method is dotting the used gasket with

No more than necessary to get a uniform coating. unadorned in any way. next, I replace the valve cover and tighten it again. You should be proud of yourself for finding a relay and using it to test all of the electrical connections in order to identify an abnormality. Recall that the low pressure fuel pump relay could also fail while starting the vehicle. Although I am unaware of the frequency, I am aware that such incidents have occurred. Unless I had it checked by an expert, I would never attempt a do-it-yourself repair on the fuseblock. If you send it to an aftermarket mini cooper specialist, they should be able to handle it. keeping the battery cord detached until you reconnect it. If they don't, an online store selling mini cooper parts should be able to point you in the direction of a facility that can check your fuse block for faulty fuel pump relays. While we're on the subject of fuseblocks, it's worth noting that gasoline relays aren't commonly faulty and can be easily repaired by the average person. While not uncommon, it is unusual in a non-convertible setting or among more recent models.
Consider using a different scan tool. However, you would get a bit more information about the issue if the scan tool could detect FC codes instead of P codes.
The coolant temperature sensor's 117 low circuit is coded by those Pcodes. Changing the thermostat housing should be high on your list of priorities right now. Even if you successfully stopped the engine after seeing that code for an extended period of time, it may still be having trouble. a potential item to examine once it begins. A sensor that measures the position of the camshaft. Remove the intake manifold (very cautiously), in my opinion. Me alone! due to the fact that The issue with the camshaft sensor has reminded me to inspect the intake valves for signs of coking and debris from the fuel-oil mixture that has been heated. undergoing recycling while delicately removing the intake manifold so as not to damage the hard plastic lines; these are, in fact, quite pricey. Be careful to remove the protective sleeve and check the plastic lines leading to the intake manifold for cracks; inspect them thoroughly. Your statement that cracks in the hard line of a PVC pipe produce the same issue is the basis for this. however, you have not yet begun. Although the valves can't be seen using the bore scope, the stem and tulip can be seen by removing the intake. Basically, it may use a walnut blasting. Alternately, a timing chain. Actually, I usually do both simultaneously when I'm doing something similar. Its timing was off. given the lack of sufficient facts, this is my final verdict on the matter. But, in my opinion, the camshaft sensor is a major indicator. The camshaft sensor is not as likely to go out. Some customers have reported that a clogged wire harness between the camshaft sensor and the computer caused the sensor to fail. Since I only hear about that issue every two years at most, I find it to be somewhat peculiar. My mini cooper has served me well for as long as I've owned it (sense new). over that entire period. But there's no way to wash down the milkshake-like substratum in the combustion chamber without manifold-type fuel injection, and the camshaft sensor is situated off the intake shaft. accumulation could throw off the timing if the vanos actuator is lenient enough to allow part of it to slide. You have no idea. What I do know, though, is that timing involves the camshaft. The cost would be difficult to predict. As for my other recent replies to forum questioners, I've mentioned checking the body of the drive-by-wire throttle. simply hold down the start button until you hear the starter solenoid turn on, and then release it instantly. During the pre-start procedures, the drive-by-wire throttle body can be heard. The most effective method for testing this is to have a second person push the button while you watch the open-faced throttle body to ensure it moves smoothly.

Moreover, I do this. Keeps a lot of my older components, even if they're dead. Take your vehicle as an example. I would get my previously used timing chain tensioner from its storage container and replace it. partly due to the fact that I had prior to installing my timing chain tensioner sufficient evidence that it is effective. Nonetheless, the main reason is that it's not exactly the same as an ageing timing chain. breathes a little new life into it. for a couple of starts so we can figure out what's happening. what the heck. Even if I didn't, I would be occupied with fixing your problem in my spare time. and when confronted with the prospect of a timing chain interval shifting, it is affordable enough to try using a chain tensioner. When my vehicle was still under warranty, it started running smooth again after they replaced the timing chain tensioner. What is essentially a band-aid for a bullet wound, yet it is still not fully healed. tensioned the chain. however it did cost money. Not to mention, you should look for a trustworthy online store with a generous return policy to purchase them from. I make sure to test them thoroughly before installing them into the vehicle. To summarise. issue with the camshaft, not good. removing the intake valve cover thoroughly inspecting each component for dirt and debris. Consider the replacement of the timing chain prior to activating the alternator. Having the fuseblock examined is being done. Ensure that the replacement battery is kept on a trickle charger away from the vehicle until the fuseblock can be installed again. verifying the operation and cleanliness of the throttle body. for the simple reason that the throttle body is as costly as an alternator. In order to test how well it works, I occasionally swap out the throttle body that I had stored away. It doesn't, but I've never pushed it through its hard core tests to get it to operate again, and the machine is adaptive. my mini cooper, or at least the one I have, appears to have rather simple primary electronic components. This means that I was spared the ordeal of putting my new throttle body through its paces without first undergoing a rigorous core reset. It was as if magic. When I say there isn't enough data, what I really mean is the car's mileage. on the extreme end, it could necessitate a compression test and the installation of new piston rings!

Thank you for your advice, however I believe I've identified the issue... There is water under my carpet, so it seems like the x11002 has been water damaged. It's usual for it to crank but not start. The improper functioning of the sunroof drainage has caused damage to the bottom of the junction box.
Here in the UK, there is no recall for this particular BMW model, but in the US, there is so I will make sure to have everything replaced in the hopes that it will resolve the issue. Unfortunately, this is not the simple solution I had hoped for.
Much obliged for your assistance.

These units can also be serviced at a facility in the United States. Adapted to Detroit. They were the ones I sent my junction box to for inspections. A test bench is available for their use. To begin, they said that mine was the very first instance of that kind of version they had ever seen. since there are various iterations. as well as an issue with the low fuel pump relay on earlier models. We also have a few of different versions. I'm almost positive that it's yours. Upon inspection, they concluded that mine may have been an early prototype and assured me that it would not have the same issues as the original. The early version, which was prone to manufacturer defects, is not seen by most.
Make sure to disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes before sending it in for repair or fixing it yourself. BEWARE: You must not connect the battery until the fuseblock has been fully reinstalled. Bricking (i.e., rendering unusable) the engine computer is possible if the vehicle detects electricity without the fuseblock attached. After installation, I would manually reset the right and left windows. once inside the vehicle, with the key in the ignition turned on or the engine running. Keep the driver's and passenger's doors closed. half-open the windows. Follow the red arrows to remove these fuses.

Next, hold down the window control buttons for a couple of seconds while you repeatedly raise and lower the driver's and passenger's windows. A total of six sets of three up-and-down motions each. Each side of the vehicle's windows can be reset in this way. Remember to reconnect the two 30-amp fuses afterward. If that occurs, you will need to start the process over. To accomplish this, hold down the driver's window toggle until you hear it strike the bottom, and then keep it in the up position. Once the window has risen to the top, hold the toggle for another 2 seconds. The operation is now finished. then proceed with the passenger side in the same manner.
When there's a problem with water, I'd fix the sunroof and roll the windows all the way after getting out of the car. That's another way water can seep in. When you enter a store, for instance, with the back turned, the windows automatically change to accommodate you. I didn't realise the window was partially rolled down.