Car Owners Hub UK - Built by Drivers, for Drivers

Howdy, everyone. I was hoping you could lend a hand. A few weeks back, I purchased an X5 30d from a dealer. It has 13 plates. Signs appeared on the screen:
Pressure gauge for tires
Transmission in position N
Initiating instability in stabilisation
DBC error
Transmission malfunction
Problem with the FTM system on Windows
Bug in parking brake
Fuel pump malfunction

I counted a couple more as well.
The only voltage that the battery was charging to, according to my obd and multimeter, was 12v. I bought a new battery, reset it, and cleared the faults because I know BMWs can have crazy battery issues. Then it was good to go for a day. After that, it returns with the same issues.

Before I take it to a garage, does anyone have any ideas where I could begin searching? Much obliged.

Since you purchased from a dealer, I wouldn't recommend investigating any further; simply let them handle the matter.

Yeah, you're absolutely right. I was hoping someone would mention that there might be a simple solution, etc. I am grateful.

In order to determine the exact cause, diagnostic testing will be necessary. However, it is possible that the problems are associated with the wheel speed sensor. However, it is highly recommended to leave the problem to the garage, as electrical faults can be difficult to diagnose and cause a lot of complications.

Oh, is that so? I hope this isn't too complicated, but this is what I was thinking. Much obliged. I will keep you updated once I get to the garage to take a look.

You should have charged the new battery before installing it.
With the new battery, what is the charging rate?

You don't have eight flaws, my friend. Low voltage is your one and only flaw.

Your alternator is either not charging or has died if the voltage is 12V.
When the voltage drops too low, the BMW E70/F15 goes into a frenzy. Every single module—DSC, DBC, Gearbox, Parking brake, RDC—lights up because the modules aren't getting enough power.

A new battery won't help if the alternator is still only putting out 12V.
Verify this initially:
1. Operating voltage when engine is turned on. Optimal range is 14.0V to 14.8V. If it's 12V, then the alternator is going out.
Step 2: When testing the IBS sensor, disconnect it from the negative terminal. Defective IBS prevents charging.
3. Inspect the B+ cable in the boot; deterioration can lead to a decrease in voltage.

Before clearing faults, fix the charging. There will be a 90% reduction in these mistakes.
Put off going to the garage just yet