Car Owners Hub UK - Built by Drivers, for Drivers

Good evening, everyone. So, after two weeks of owning the car, I'm actually quite satisfied with it. The 2.2 diesel, even with the automatic gearbox, isn't hesitant to get going.

So, this is what I understand...or don't understand

1) I got a harness and an adaptor plate for my double-din stereo, but now it won't turn on. I had to replace the fuse that the previous owner had taken out because the stock radio apparently drained the battery overnight . Can someone suggest a reliable harness? Or know where I can find someone who can assist with diagrams?

2) I'm going to check the fuse in the engine bay shortly; the air conditioner isn't working (the clutch isn't engaging, apparently). Today I felt like I was in an air fryer. The garage said they couldn't regas the vehicle because the clutch wasn't working.

3. It makes an ear-piercing noise whenever it's in full lock, whether it's dry or moving slowly. Isn't that a sign of a serpentine belt?

4) ESP...I've found a problem; the steering wheel is crooked; I'll fix it, but do you have any other recommendations?

Is that sufficient for what could be a temporary vehicle?

Got a garage sale with a guarantee?
Did you notice these flaws when you bought it?

1-Is there no way to use an unused ignition fuse to get a 12+ supply?
2-The clutch must be malfunctioning or not receiving the signal to engage if the air conditioner compressor is not rotating.
3. It's possible that the belt is slipping on the pulleys because either the belt tensioner isn't functioning correctly or the belt surface is hard from age.
4-Is the alignment off, or was the wheel damaged when removed and reinstalled (the wheel and steering spline should have a mark)?

Buy it privately for the purpose of a cheap runabout; the engine sounds like it still has a lot of life left (155k miles and a rhino-like pull).

1) I was going to put in a USB charging port from the cigarette lighter, but I guess music is more important
2. I've just verified the fuse: it's 15 amps, but the book says it's 5 amps. The fuse above it should be 15 amps, but it's 5 amps. I'm going to get a removal clip and swap it out to see if it works.
3. Full tensioner kits are inexpensive. I'll probably get one and see if it fixes the problem. 4. I don't know. It drives straight with a wonky wheel, so I'm guessing yes. It has probably been off at some point.

After I finish this and determine whether it drains the battery, it will be a nice little motor.

Was my Clk drain the alarm siren in the nearside wheel well? I'm not sure if it would be the same. £100. Simple exchange.

I am grateful.

Not all responses have been read by me.

As previously mentioned, a live power supply is required for the stock audio to activate via canbus.

Be prepared for spotty FM reception; USB kits tend to amplify interference. But then all it needs is to be unplugged.

In the absence of the lubricant contained in the AC gas, the AC compressor may become goosed after an extended period of inactivity, even when using a regas. It might seize and remove the accessory belt if you start using it. I had this experience the day following the system's recovery and restoration. I need a new compressor, and I should get it done quickly so I don't have to regas again.

Does the steering fluid need to be checked?

A tracking alignment is necessary in the event that the steering geometry has been adjusted incorrectly. Hopefully, they removed the steering wheel (for some inexplicable reason) and realigned it.
Prior to attempting that, ensure that the key is removed from the ignition and remains so while the wheel is removed. On the other hand, if the diagnostics are good, it will display an ESP code that needs to be reset; however, that could be your problem anyhow.