Car Owners Hub UK - Built by Drivers, for Drivers

Greetings, everyone! I possess an R60 S model N18 with 153,473 miles. I wish to contribute to the misfire discussions, as I am experiencing misfires in cylinders 1 and 2 that commence above 2500 RPM. To summarise, I disassembled the engine to refurbish the cylinder head due to low compression in cylinder 4 caused by a chipped exhaust valve. The head has been fitted with new seals, two new valves, and three replaced guides, and it has been cleaned and pressure tested successfully. I replaced numerous components and reassembled the engine, yet issues persist. The engine idles smoothly, and after a brief test drive, it did not enter limp mode and is no longer generating error codes. Previously, I encountered codes 2efe, 2f00, 2ee0, 2ee7, 2eff, and 2ee4, all related to misfires, either multiple or specific to certain cylinders, some indicating fuel injector deactivation. However, live data still indicates misfires, predominantly in cylinders 1 and 2.

Compression measures 150 psi consistently in both cold and warm conditions. A smoke test conducted at the throttle body revealed that the PCV diaphragm was inverted. This issue was rectified, resulting in no leaks, improved idling, and the resolution of prior misfire codes indicating hazardous exhaust emissions.


Components substituted (extensive enumeration).
Water pump and pulley, upgraded aluminium coolant pipe, thermostat housing, friction tensioner, idler pulley, crank pulley, crank hub, crank seal, both vanos solenoids, new timing set, oil pump chain and sprocket, both vanos sprockets, all fuel injectors, all spark plugs, all ignition coils, all turbo lines with new banjo bolts and washers, auxiliary water pump, new battery and nearly every sensor and gasket replaced; upgrades include a Turbosmart BOV, a Way Motor Works hot side intercooler muff

The scanner I possess is an Ancel BM700 Pro, which is adequate but significantly deficient in live data tracking points. However, it performs timing adaptations, battery registration, and can reset the valvetronic limits, all of which I have executed. I have alternated between new and old sensors, as well as new and old injectors with new seals across different cylinders. The original coils and plugs were defective, so I did not retest them. The initial start utilised Dinan coils and Bosch iridium plugs, which I interchanged without effect. Subsequently, I employed Delphi coils with Beru platinum plugs, also switching them without result. I am certain I have overlooked other attempts, but currently, I have the Dinan coils paired with the Beru platinums, along with the PCV fix, which has yielded the best performance thus far.

I did not address the bottom end, as it appeared satisfactory to me; but, I am acquiring knowledge incrementally and did not consider it until after reassembling everything.

What am I overlooking in this situation? Will I need to disassemble this car once more and begin anew? I have about exhausted my diagnostic knowledge and may need to consult a specialist, which I prefer to avoid due to the cost. However, I would like to hear your opinions. I require assistance to restore this to operational status, since my truck is currently inoperative and I am compelled to borrow a vehicle. Any suggestions or support would be welcomed.

Would check to see if the spark plugs are properly installed by crushing the accompanying washer. at times it's more than fourteen pounds. However, gently tightening the spark plug causes the crush washer to swoosh down to a flat position, at which time more torque is no longer needed. This is what I mean when I say that it gets lost in the shuffle of everything else. thus it's desirable to handle the spark plugs with particular care, what with the aluminium head and all. nevertheless it's important to push past that and pay attention to how the crush washer has been flattened. As an additional option, you may potentially obtain a coolant reading by accessing the indicator hidden menu or the odometer hidden menu; however, I am not really certain about this. keep an eye on the current temperature. it seems like you purchased a thermometer housing. Next, inspect the underside of the valve cover, beneath the moulded plastic necks, for vacuum leaks; this is an often-overlooked issue. On occasion, they may develop cracks on the underside. Additionally, make sure that you test your throttle body actuator. No matter how long you push the start button (with your foot on the brake) until you hear the starter solenoid engage, the car still won't start. nonetheless, the throttle body actuator can be tested immediately thereafter. You can almost hear a reiteration of the word "Reer" when you say it. The intake manifold cold side piping is located apart from the throttle body actuator, allowing one to observe the vanos butterfly and ensure its smooth, nearly human-like movement, thanks to the drive-by-wire programming. This process is repeated six times. The process runs through a lot of data points just by initiating it, so it's like getting two things for the price of one. even if the engine is always off. If you would for something to stick, you'll need to wait ten to thirty seconds before starting again.
One last thing to do is swap out the seals on the fuel injectors. a direct injector seal, such as the one seen above, made by the Volkswagen brand. as well as the sole distinction between the mini and vw.

At present, the scanner's live data only displays misfires at 2500 rpm or higher. I've observed a tiny lag when I accelerate, and when I release the throttle after it reaches operating temperature, there's a little dip in rpm. I will definitely give that throttle body relearn a shot. The spark plugs are torqued to 23.1 NM, but I could probably give them a little more. Which set of plugs do you recommend—the present Beru platinums, the Bosch IRs I had in, or the NGK IRs I originally pulled out? I tried both the new Bosch fuel injectors with the seals you recommended and the old injectors with no luck. The new ones come with new seals already attached. As per the live data from my scanner, the coolant temperature remained around 220 degrees Fahrenheit after warmed up and driven around. The fan then kicks on and stays quite consistent, within a few degrees. One of the live data points I can see with my scanner is the intake pipe vacuum before the throttle valve. I'm not sure if it's good or bad, but it reads around 930 give or take. I'm not sure of the unit of measure on that, though. I discovered a leak from the pcv diaphragm, which was upside down. After flipping it over, I noticed no more leaks from that or anywhere else in the intake system. Apologies for the response!

Here are a couple live data photos taken after the engine has started up and been idled for a few minutes, just in case you were wondering. So far, this scanner has provided me with all the data I need.

various types of plugs available. I tend to stay out of politics. I removed the brisk plugs (or "p2" or whatever they're called) and tried them again. Over the years that I've owned my Mini Cooper, one of the major events occurred. as early as possible Even with the first generation of Mini Coopers, several companies rode the wave of success. On top of that, the second generation was a verbal mashup. They designed items specifically for them, and in some cases, those products could be useful. however, the majority of these items belonged to generation 2 and were designed for generation 1. They could certainly make a case in a court of law. rather than those quick p2 sparkplugs. Despite their potential, they are not a more chilly plug. However, it is likely to be in accordance with the specifications of a reconditioned N14 engine using N18 pistons, resulting in a lower compression ratio of 9.5 to 1. In other words, the catalytic converter and the high compression make them incompatible with premium-only fuel vehicles with a 10:1 compression ratio. I have now tested spark plugs under optimal conditions, new catalytic converter, piston rings, timing, and a fully rebuilt cylinder head on multiple occasions. Long ago, after the machine shop, a few of these folks came over and saw my cylinder head. Those standard-sized triple-ring nitrite exhaust valves were a throwback to an average build from when ecs tuning offered them. what a bore. I prefer not to bore you to death. Just keep that in mind when you're looking for parts. it's a business catering to the first generation that attempted to create a product for the second. In fact, in the United States, it is not uncommon for local auto parts stores to have generation 1 parts, such as arms, advertised as generation 2, but when you finally get your hands on them on Monday, they are actually generation 1. With the new plugs boshe or not working to the extent that there is a delay, I find your position humorous. I think it's either a spark plug working like a +1 colder, which is a typical idea from generation one, or it's just that. Alternatively, it could be a timing issue, bucking, or a valve that has kissed a piston but hasn't left an indent. To inspect these valves, one can use a reverse-style bore scope. One should also check the cam followers to ensure they are in constant contact with the camshaft and lifters as the engine rotates. For this reason, you can see that your valves are rising again. While I don't consider myself particularly conventional, I do like to extract the cylinder head when the timing chain changes so I can clean up the valve train, check the fluid action in the valve guides and replace the seals on the valve stems. With the exception of a head gasket, which costs 120 dollars (or such), I already have the arp cylinder head studs on hand, so that portion is essentially free. However, they released a new version, which I intend to utilise soon, and its price tag is 105 dollars (or something similar). Head gaskets of that size were never available until around a year ago. so I can get back a little bit of compression value. After milling or skimming the head, they extracted roughly eight thousand, for a total of twelve thousand. In any case. Arrp head bolts, one spring compressor tool (aries brand), and a cam lock kit. enables me to remove the head with each timing chain operation.
This is my speech, so bear that in mind. The spark plug angle and timing chain are the sources of this. and please like the posts of other commenters; I'm hoping someone will speak up. However, I could certainly provide a long list of potential reasons for a bucking delay. however those should be your primary concerns, given that you have recently completed your timing chain.