.png){kind=logo}
Starting my 2013 A180 (W176) is a bit of a challenge. Basically, in order for the car to start, I have to insert the key and jiggle it around until it works. The spare key is no different.
Has anyone dealt with this before and found a solution?
Please be informed that in May 2025, the steering lock was replaced and coded to the car, keys, and so forth.
You’re only seeing the surface.
Our most active car forums and technical guides are reserved for registered users.
Sign up here to get total access and start sharing your own ride.
Our most active car forums and technical guides are reserved for registered users.
Sign up here to get total access and start sharing your own ride.
Is the W176 Key Barrel malfunctioning?
-
LiamTheGreat
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 8:35 pm
Was there a warranty included with the replacement? Go back to the people who were a good fit if that's the case.
-
EvestineBeetle
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:03 pm
I touched base with them. If it's related to the work they did, they told to bring the car back; otherwise, they'll give you a repair quotation. It was MB that sold the steering lock.
The most likely explanation is that they will claim it is a separate issue.
The most likely explanation is that they will claim it is a separate issue.
-
EvestineBeetle
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:03 pm
When you connect a jumper cable to the positive terminal on the fuse box and the positive terminal on the battery, the car will start. Is there a reason?
-
ChristousPapous
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:00 pm
It has just lately occurred to me.
I had two problems. After what felt like an eternity of testing, I finally isolated the problem to a defective CAN connector located beneath the instrument cluster; the first suspect was the ignition switch.
I had two problems. After what felt like an eternity of testing, I finally isolated the problem to a defective CAN connector located beneath the instrument cluster; the first suspect was the ignition switch.
-
ChristousPapous
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:00 pm
-
EvestineBeetle
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:03 pm
Tell me how you identified the problems and how you resolved them.
If you're using a jump lead to avoid touching the positive battery lead, there should be a bas contact on one end. I had an ALFA 147 that wouldn't start sometimes a few years ago. Remade ground points, double-checked everything, etc., but it built no change. The problem was most certainly related to the power supply. After searching online for a suggestion, I slashed back the insulation on the positive lead from the battery. Instead of finding lovely gleaming copper, I discovered a terrible slimy black and green rusted sludge. The local factor sold a replacement universal lead for five quid, which was able to remedy the problem. It was installed between the battery and the starter. I just have an idea.
-
ChristousPapous
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:00 pm
Somehow, I failed to notice this.
As a preliminary step, I would inspect the large main power wires for signs of corrosion or loose contact.
As a preliminary step, I would inspect the large main power wires for signs of corrosion or loose contact.
-
EvestineBeetle
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:03 pm
Compatriot, how did you discover this mistake? How were they both fixed?