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I'm looking for something interactive, since I've already done some research and read some threads here and on Google. What I've read so far doesn't seem to apply to my situation.
This is my ride: a 2010 Hyundai Accent 'blue' 2-door hatchback with a 5-speed manual gearbox. 80,000 miles. I've had it for approximately five months.
I thought my battery was dying around three months ago. I had to replace it because my battery tester showed it to be on the verge of being good.
After a week, it was determined that the starter was the malfunctioning part, so it was swapped out.
Then I realised that my engine would sputter, surge, and stall immediately after filling up until I could resume driving. After I got it up to speed and stopped, it idled smoothly again.
Because of this, I've been considering getting a new evap purge valve or solenoid. I simply have not completed it as of yet.
I was stopped at a light two days ago, just 300 yards from my workplace, on my way to work (a one-hour commute). It wasn't until I was about to pull away with the green light that I realised the engine had stalled.
Had to have it hauled home after trying to start it repeatedly without success. In addition to cranking, I used the gas pedal to apply different amounts of throttle. It would not start even when I held the throttle open wide.
After connecting my Snap-On Solus, which instructed me to press key 20, the device proceeded to enter the year, make, and model by hand because it was unable to establish a connection. Key 17 was indicated when I was navigating those menu options. Additionally, there was a breakdown in communication with that. The software on the solus may not cover model years 2010 because I purchased all of this used and cannot recall which year it is compatible with.
I connected the generic code reader, but all I could find was a diagnostic code for "alternator communication." I cleared the code and attempted to start the engine again, but it still didn't fix the problem. spin, but it won't start. But there was no CEL.
Have no idea what to do next. When you turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump does run for three seconds. Although the crank position sensor is said to be the most common problem by Google, I don't believe it's the crank sensor since the tachometer responds to engine cranking.
Do you know how to check the crank sensor? What happened to the crank sensor? It seems like the sensor is just a two-wire sensor, or am I mistaken?
The sensors appear inexpensive enough that I could just throw parts at the problem instead of trying to figure out what's causing it.
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My interpretation of a situation where the engine turns over but fails to ignite.
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mariobrother
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:05 pm
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mariobrother
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:05 pm
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mariobrother
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:05 pm
In 2026, will your generic diagnostic tool still be able to read codes or will it also be able to scan and display data from engine sensors? If the latter, then while cranking the engine, check the RPM reading on the tool data list; this is the signal from the crank sensor and should be between 250 and 350 RPM. If it reads zero, then the problem is with the circuitry of the crank sensor.
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mariobrother
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:05 pm
Wow, that's a valid point. I tuned my Dakota after changing the heads, cam, intake, and headers using this LM-2 data logger, but I was a complete moron and thought it was just a code reader. It records data from all sensors and can be plugged into the OBD-2 port. ECT, RPM, MAP, MAF, TPS, and so on. With any luck, I can use it to find the RPM. On the other hand, the tachometer shows 250–300 rpm when cranking, so I'm not sure it's the crank sensor. I will verify this once I return home later today.
I am certain that I am observing the correct sensor, as it is a two-wire unit located on the engine's front right side (the right side when facing the engine, the left side of the car near the bellhousing/flywheel). Does it simply serve as an on/off signal? Typically, I would observe three wires: voltage, sensor ground, and the signal from the sensor to the PCM.
I am certain that I am observing the correct sensor, as it is a two-wire unit located on the engine's front right side (the right side when facing the engine, the left side of the car near the bellhousing/flywheel). Does it simply serve as an on/off signal? Typically, I would observe three wires: voltage, sensor ground, and the signal from the sensor to the PCM.
When the engine is in motion, the VRS (Variable Reluctance Speed) sensor produces an alternating current (AC) voltage. Just off the top of my head, I don't remember what the voltage output should be at cranking speed. Imagine a voltage of around 2V peak to peak. The voltage increases in direct proportion to the engine's revolution rate. The engine control unit (ECU) will disregard the signal if the voltage output is too low when cranking the engine. Consequently, the scan tool data list is the gold standard for checking it.
Keeping an eye on how the fuel pump is working is another technique to test the crank sensor. The electronic control unit (ECU) uses the signal from the crank sensor to control the fuel pump relay. You said that you can make out the three-second prime. This proves that the pump is operational and that the ECU can manage the relay. While the engine is turning over, you must ensure that it turns on once more. If it doesn't, the crank sensor signal is probably the culprit. In the absence of engine rotation, the electronic control unit (ECU) will not activate the fuel pump. If an accident were to cause a fuel line to burst, that safety feature would ensure that the fuel pump would turn off automatically. To prevent a fuel-fed fire, the pump will turn off automatically when the engine stops running because of insufficient fuel.
Keeping an eye on how the fuel pump is working is another technique to test the crank sensor. The electronic control unit (ECU) uses the signal from the crank sensor to control the fuel pump relay. You said that you can make out the three-second prime. This proves that the pump is operational and that the ECU can manage the relay. While the engine is turning over, you must ensure that it turns on once more. If it doesn't, the crank sensor signal is probably the culprit. In the absence of engine rotation, the electronic control unit (ECU) will not activate the fuel pump. If an accident were to cause a fuel line to burst, that safety feature would ensure that the fuel pump would turn off automatically. To prevent a fuel-fed fire, the pump will turn off automatically when the engine stops running because of insufficient fuel.
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mariobrother
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2026 9:05 pm
While cranking, I will attempt to measure the voltage. While cranking, make sure the pump turns back on.
Cranking the engine causes my data logger to show 350 rpm, so it appears the ECU is receiving a signal to crank. Reading from the on-board diagnostics port
Cranking the engine causes my data logger to show 350 rpm, so it appears the ECU is receiving a signal to crank. Reading from the on-board diagnostics port
A fuel pump check terminal is conveniently located on the engine bay fusebox, so Hyundai has already assisted us with that task. Find the "F/P CHK" on the label inside the fusebox cover. You can check if the pump is getting power when you crank it by connecting a voltmeter to the check terminal. The initial ignition switch-on should provide 12V for approximately three seconds. Priming the fuel rail is what that pump is doing. As the engine is being turned over, you should see a voltage reading of around 10V. Your crank sensor is probably not to blame for your car's inability to start if those voltages check.